Scrambled eggs on toast

Four large free-range organic eggs, 25g President butter, a loaf of granary bread, a pinch of salt, some ground black pepper

To complete my trilogy of toast posts, I thought I'd go for my favourite weekend morning treat: smooth, creamy, somewhat luxurious eggs on crispy unbuttered toast; delicious, savoury and more filling than a bowl of Alpen or organic yoghurt.  My mum's scrambled eggs are top notch, and Catherine's scrambled eggs are very good too, but I enjoy making them so much that I'd rather muscle my way towards the hob and do them myself if possible.

When I first learnt to make scrambled eggs, I couldn't see what difference it would make whether they were cooked quickly or slowly, and I thought that the more you added to the eggs, the better they would be.  I used to add onion, red pepper, cheese and all sorts and then overcook the egg.  It was OK, but it sort of missed the point of really good scrambled eggs.  It's no coincidence that they're often teamed up with smoked salmon as part of the most indulgent special occasion breakfast - they should be delicately creamy themselves rather than relying on a host of additional flavours.  For the same reason, I'm against adding milk or water to the egg mixture - if the eggs are going to be suitably indulgent, filling them out with any lowish fat liquid isn't going to work.

So this is a recipe for scrambled eggs on toast a deux, which is I think probably when it's at its best.  Heat half of your butter in a relatively thick-bottomed saucepan on a medium heat until it fizzes.  On a gas hob, you've probably got to err on the side of caution and go low; on our cruddy electric hob, we have to go for 4 out of 6 otherwise the butter barely melts.  I like President; when I can't get that (our local Sainsbury's has stopped selling it recently) I go for Kerry Gold on the advice of my Irish friend.  Meanwhile, crack your four eggs, beat them for twenty seconds with about seven scrunches of salt and roughly the same of pepper (obviously depends on your mills), and add them to the foaming butter.  Cut two slices of bread (the granary loaf from the Bun Shop down our road is pretty good) and pop them under the grill (always seems to taste better than in the toaster).

Stir the eggs.  You'll probably need to turn the heat down very soon.  I don't think it really matters how you stir them, but you want them to cook at the bottom before being moved on so you end with delicate folds of just-cooked egg.  I reckon that if any steam starts rising from the eggs then they're on too high a heat and so I remove them for a moment.  I think they're done when they start going a bit 'sticky' - the last remaining liquid bits are just starting to turn.  Then you take them off the heat and add the rest of the butter (double cream works OK, but I think butter is better).  Stir the butter in while it melts.

Then pile onto the toast and eat with a cup of tea - English breakfast or lemon and ginger, normally - while you play a suitable Saturday morning record, like Joni Mitchell's Court and Spark or something by Steely Dan.

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